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Releasing Chanel’s results last summer in tandem with the creation of a new, London-based holding company, Chanel Limited, indicated that the Wertheimers were gearing up for change. Whether that will go on to include the naming of a new, star designer remains to be seen. While Viard’s importance to Lagerfeld and Chanel has been well known internally and among industry insiders, her influence has been mostly behind the scenes. Opulent costume jewels were Coco Chanel’s next endeavor, where she astounded her followers with unprecedented combinations of faux and precious materials.
Coco by Karl
Workers were waiting to help shoppers in each room, and they all offered me a friendly greeting as I walked by them. Home to an abundance of luxury stores like Bergdorf Goodman and Tiffany & Co., the avenue is constantly flooded with shoppers from far and wide, and the day I headed to see one of its latest additions was no different. As for other contenders, in a 2005 interview with New York magazine, Marc Jacobs, then creative director of Louis Vuitton and his own collection, went on the record saying that Chanel would be the only other job that interested him.
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There she began a romantic relationship with Baron Hans Günther von Dincklage, a German diplomat and Gestapo spy. The same year, Chanel boutiques offering only selections of accessories were opened in the United States. We do not store nor share this information, and your image is deleted automatically when you close the virtual try-on page. See the CHANEL Privacy Policy for more information on Chanel's use of personal data. Europe’s Parliament has signed off rules that will make brands more accountable for what happens in their supply chains, ban products made with forced labour and set new environmental standards for the design and disposal of products.
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Breaking down codes, tearing down gender boundaries to launch a classic future for fashion, that of “masculine-feminine,” Gabrielle Chanel dared to do everything. She stole tweed from menswear, and turned humble jersey knit into a privileged material\u003b she designed pajamas for the beach, and dresses that erased the waist. While Chanel found immense success as a designer, the financial basis of her empire was Chanel No. 5. She developed the phenomenally successful perfume in 1921 with the help of Ernest Beaux, one of the most talented perfume creators in France. Others, however, have noted that Chanel was superstitious and considered five to be her lucky number. That Chanel was the first major fashion designer to introduce a perfume and that she replaced the typical perfume packaging with a simple and sleek bottle also added to the scent’s success.
In contrast to the highly decorative, Art Nouveau-inspired bottles of other perfumers, Gabrielle Chanel chose a simple square bottle reminiscent of medicine vials or men's perfume bottles. The original 1921 bottle featured a square stopper etched with two interlocking C's enclosed in a circle – the first time CHANEL used what would become iconic shorthand for the brand. In 1924, the square stopper became facetted and octagonal, and the bottle became bevelled. Despite minor modifications, the stark and clean design with simple off-white label and black lettering has remained largely unchanged since it was launched. Likewise, the formula for CHANEL N°5 has stayed the same since Ernest Beaux first created it over a century ago.
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Of particular note is Princess Diana of Wales, the ultimate style icon of the 80’s and 90’s. Designed by Lagerfeld and produced from 1989 to approximately 1995, the Chanel Diana bag is a coveted find among vintage hunters and Diana admirers alike. This classic design closely resembles that of the Chanel Single Flap, and was sported so frequently by Princess Diana, that Karl Largefeld felt it only fitting to honor her in the name. Despite the resurrection of this handbag style in the Spring 2015 collection, the vintage Chanel Diana in caviar leather remains the most elusive and sought-after variation ever crafted. For an exciting cinematic moment with the upcoming film Spencer, Kristen Stewart – one of Lagerfeld’s more modern day Chanel muses – will play Princess Diana in a striking performance.
Dress, 1925Evening versions of the "little black dress," which tended to be sleeveless, were often made from layered lace or silk chiffon with asymmetric hems and scooping necklines. This superb example shows Chanel's acute sensibility for scooping neckline forms, always suspended from the shoulders with a cascade of the light drapery of the dress falling to knee length without detection of bust or hips. Vogue said of these Chanel dresses that they show her "art of avoiding mistakes." That same art is what is sought by the generations of women who have counted on "the little black dress."
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Photography Courtesy of ChanelWords by Laurie Brookins for Modern Luxury
She then created N°5 in 1921, the first perfume by a dressmaker, which overturned the codes of perfumery of the era with its trail and refined bottle. In 1937, she herself posed to create advertisements, an innovation and an act of boldness, again... And then there was the fine jewelry collection “Bijoux de Diamants” in 1932, which stirred up and sparked scandal in the subdued world of fine jewelry, and showed, once more, how she rendered everything that had been done previously out of fashion.
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Instead of a classic coarse tweed, Chanel reworked the traditional Scottish fabric, creating a soft bucked tweed (known as bouclé), which enabled more movement. In 1962 Gabrielle Chanel chose Massaro, a shoemaker based on the prestigious rue de la Paix in Paris, to develop the ultimate CHANEL shoe. Established in 1894, the Massaro house was a discreet address known by word of mouth and personal recommendation. As always, Gabrielle Chanel designed to suit her own wardrobe, selecting a beige leather to match her skin tone, giving the appearance of an elongated leg. A small black toecap gave a tiny punctuation over the toes that visually shortened the foot, and protected the paler leather from scuffs. Jersey made Gabrielle Chanel's name a force to be reckoned with in the world of French fashion.
Coming full circle, Viard’s appointment marks the first time that a woman is at the helm of the fashion house since its eponymous founder, Coco Chanel. A creative entrepreneur and changemaker, Coco Chanel’s legacy – as kept alive through her successors – has withstood the test of time. When Karl Lagerfeld took the reins of Maison Chanel in 1983, Coco had been gone for 12 years, and the brand was struggling.
Accessories were fundamental to Gabrielle Chanel's concept of a harmonious silhouette. They reflected her pragmatic vision of fashion and provided recognisable codes which underlined the unity of her style. As her style evolved, Gabrielle Chanel used permutations of knitted jersey throughout her career, continually updating and adapting it. Her first hat boutique, which she opened in 1910 and which drew in the entire city of Paris, was the cornerstone of her legacy. Two years later, with her instinct sensing the rise of seaside resort towns, she set up a second boutique in Deauville.
Meanwhile, politics may be moving at a faster speed, creating different challenges for brands. Major luxury players have historically been wary of the secondary market, concerned it could damage their carefully controlled hold on brand distribution and image, cannibalise sales and encourage counterfeiting. Chanel's careful curation of its new space — from a custom scent and attentive staff to the shades of gold bathing the property — made it feel comfortable and inviting. Visiting Chanel's watches and fine jewelry boutique is an experience, which you just can't get online. Of the three rooms on the main floor, one held watches, one had more accessible pieces from Chanel's jewelry line, and the third held rarer pieces from its collection.
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